Where can I get power for an amplifier?

This shows you how to get power for an amplifier in the trunk without running wire through the firewall

You have two options:
  • 1. If you amplifier has power sensing inputs (which means that it will turn on and off when it senses signal from the inputs) its recommended that you use the always on power source

  • 2. If your amplifier does not have the above and you want the amplifier to go off when your radio does (on rap), use the RAP AMP procedure below: (to learn about RAP, Go here)

    Method 1

  • You'll need to make sure there's 30A fuse in the right location and that it's wired in.
  • If you look at that fuse center from in front of it, you'll see the larger relays on the upper left side and the smaller relays on the upper right side. The maxi fuse will go right under the fuse for the AMP (it's a 30A fuse too, I believe).
  • On the bottom side of the fuse block, the 30A fuse is already wired to battery on one side and has to be wired to the pusher relay from the other terminal. That "open" terminal should be closest to you as you're looking at the fuse block.
  • Always looking from the top of the fuse center, that wire from the fuse will go to the upper right cavity of the relay. You should use 12 gage wire if you're wiring this up with a 30A fuse.
  • The coil sides of the relay are the terminals on the upper left and lower right. The output terminals are the lower left and lower middle of the relay. You'd use the lower left - the normally open contact that closes when power's applied to the coil.

    +-------------------+
    | coil |blank| batt |
    -------+------+-----+
    |output| n/c | coil |
    +-------------------+


    Thanks IB

    Method 2

    Check out the schematics below (click to enlarge). Regardless of the model year or sunroof option, you've gotta get access to either the TAN 755 circuit coming right from the Rear Integration Module (RIM) or the DARK BLUE 75 circuit coming off of the RAP relay (if you have it). Either circuit should be able to drive the added I coil talked about above.

    IB's suggestion: if you've got the RAP relay already there with your sunroof, find a way to tap into the 75 circuit. That way, it's already fused and you don't worry about putting any unnecessary load on the RIM 755 output. If you don't have a RAP relay (no sunroof), add one and if your sub takes less than 30A, use that as the power feed.


    Schematics to help you understand the above explanation





    Note on Method 1:

    If you're concerned about the feeds to the fuse block, I don't think you should be. There are 2 - 10 gage wires feeding that block each capable of 80A at around 75 degrees F. The wires get derated for current as temperature increases and when interior temps reach about 170F, the current rating decreases to 63A. So, the one wire that supplies the pusher fan feed, also supplies the power seat and lumbar motors, reverse lights, trunk release, various modules, blah, blah, blah. Those loads would nominally be around 5A and will approach 80A IF (big IF) all the seat motors are stalled (i.e. both passenger and driver seat switches are pressed and the motors run to their max position in any direction).

    Since I don't think you'll be listening to the stereo AND running the seats to stall, I doubt you'd have any wire gage problems. The only downside I can see would be minor. The sub feed would essentially share the same feed as the seats, so unless you put in an adequate power supply with good input filtering, you might hear a pop every time you move a seat motor. Inrush current from a motor will put a lot of noise on that feed.

    thanks IB
    If anyone wants to take pictures and document the procedure when they do this, that would be much appreciated.



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